Back up camera failed to display.  This problem has occurred randomly several times in the past.

Complaint Possible complaints about shift quality, issues with learning the park lock, and slipping/rinse entries in the EEPROM or Transmission Health system following the replacement of the below components: - The electrohydraulic control unit (EHS valve body) in transmission 725.0/725.1 - The repair kit for the control unit (VGS) in transmission 725.0 Cause Missing, incorrectly installed, or damaged guide tubes on the EHS valve body. Remedy Check for the correct installation of the guide tubes (refer to attachments under “Cause”), correct installation if necessary. Parts Catalog References: NAG3M 725.1 AND NAG3C 725.0 (AMG only): Part numbers 100, 120, 150, 160 NAG3C 725.0 (Non AMG): Part numbers 280, 290, 330, 340 NOTE: If any of these guide tubes are not installed and the vehicle is driven, it will create several rinse and slipping events in the EEPROM data. These values caused by incorrect installation need to be erased to prevent future misdiagnosis. Submit a TIPS case to the Powertrain inbox with the following to receive the necessary reset password: - Initial Quick Test w/ Freeze frame data - VGS Control Unit Log - IPR Result - Initial EEPROM data (before repairs) - Latest EEPROM data - Photo of oil level ultrasonic measurement next to XENTRY specifications Please provide detail regarding the reasoning for the initial replacement in your workshop findings and measures performed. (This topic was covered in the July 2022 and July 2024 Passenger Car Tech Topics)

Complaint Only vehicles with a variable transfer case are affected. This can be identified through control unit N45 or N15/7 in the quick test. When accelerating with light load, vibrations or jolting sensation may come from the drivetrain. It may be mistaken for a harsh shift. Cause Modified oil quality of the transfer case over time Remedy 1. Check initial quick test for faults in the following control units. N45 or N15/7 - All-wheel drive (ARS) N127 - 'Drivetrain' (PTCU) control unit Y3/8 - Transmission control for 9-gear transmission (VGS) N3/10 - Engine electronics for combustion engine If faults are present: Process them as per the guided test in Xentry. If no faults are present: 2. Check the transmission oil level If the oil level is correct: 3. Unplug the connector for the transfer cases control unit and reassess the vehicle on a subsequent test drive If the complaint no longer occurs with the control unit disconnected: 4. Perform an oil change of the transfer case according to WIS specifications - Collect an oil sample of the original fluid 5. Complete all transfer case Tech-in processes located under VG Control Unit > Adaptations - Resetting the oil service data - Calibration of N15/7 5. Perform road test of vehicle to bring transmission to operating temperature ( >60C ) 6. Operate vehicle in full circle with steering at full lock - 5x to the left - 5x to the right 7. Perform an extended 200mi road test to ensure the clutches are properly conditioned with the new oil. 8. Reassess the concern and release the vehicle if no longer present. If the concern continues to occur with the control unit disconnected or after the above steps have been performed, please submit a TIPS case to the Powertrain inbox with the following information: - Initial quick test with fault freeze frame data - Initial transmission EEPROM data - VGS and Transfer Case Control Unit Log (N45 or N15/7) - Photo of the original oil condition - What color was the fluid drained from the transfer case before the oil change? - Was an oil sample collected, and can you provide a photo of the original fluid? - What color and part number fluid was used during the oil change? - How far was the vehicle driven after?

Complaint Possible humming noises from the drivetrain in the area of the rear axle, especially during tight cornering in the lower speed range. Remedy Note: Please follow the instructions in this document. The replacement of components (other than those named for processing) is not effective. Remedy: A test drive must be performed. For accurate analysis (localization) of the noise, the Steelman Chassis Ear noise diagnosis kit can be used, for example. If the rear axle differential is unambiguously identified as the cause (noise source), the oil must be replaced.  Observe the following: 1. Warm up the oil in the differential by means of a short test drive. 2. Drain the oil from the differential and fill it with new oil according to the parts list in the attachment. Please follow the procedure described in AR.35.31-P-0523OLC. Note: To ensure that the differential is drained as completely as possible, both rear wheels should be rotated slowly 2-3 turns while draining. Make sure that as little residual oil as possible remains in the differential. 3. Please advise the customer that in isolated cases the problem may continue to occur for another 30 to 60 miles after the oil has been replaced. If the problem is still present after the appropriate mileage: • Double check the appropriate mileage was driven. • Repeat the flushing and filling procedure a second time, make sure to properly flush all the diff fluid out • If no change after the second flush and additional mileage. replace the rear diff

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce or eliminate noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some of the scenarios are: • Driving style • Brake pressure and application style (stop-and-go traffic with consistent low brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). • Ambient temperatures 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and brake paste as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate, you may gently scrape off and re-apply a new adhesive. In some instances the adhesive may be very carefully removed and Molykote applied instead. 4. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 6. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment Rear Pad Grease Area) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. e) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. f) Reassess noise.

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce or eliminate noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some of the scenarios are: • Driving style • Brake pressure and application style (stop-and-go traffic with consistent low brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). • Ambient temperatures 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and Molykote as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 4. Be sure to remove both brown paper backing sides of the adhesive film, it is double sided adhesive film. 5. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate where pistons contact the back of the pad, you may gently scrape off and re-apply a new adhesive or Molykote. Must not apply the Molykote on top of the adhesive. 6. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture Chamfering Technique. 7. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 8. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment Rear Pad Grease Area) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake application

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing before) before coating with Molykote, using spirit (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing after) using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint After a software update of HERMES communication module N112/9 has been performed on a gray import vehicle, the message SOS - Service not activated is displayed in the instrument cluster. Cause The message SOS - Service not activated tells the customer that over-the-air registration of the vehicle with the Mercedes Intelligent Cloud is not possible. On a gray import vehicle, this is due to the fact that the SIM card installed in the HERMES communications module cannot dial into the mobile phone network in the importing country. Remedy The only way of avoiding the message in the instrument cluster is to deactivate the HERMES module using the 09o deactivation process after obtaining the customer's consent. After deactivation, the HERMES control unit (N112/9) has the operating status Inoperative. The message SOS not ready appears in the audio/COMAND display (A40/8) and may also appear in the instrument cluster. This display message tells the customer that the emergency call function is not available. In addition, the workshop must attach a label (2 x part number A9078172900 required) to the cover of the emergency call button in the overhead control panel and to the emergency call button itself. Replacing the hardware of the HERMES communication module is not effective.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a closed system. Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy AMG brake systems are designed for high loads. This can result in noises under certain operating conditions and driving styles. Please refer to the Operator's Manual for further information such as care and maintenance instructions (washing vehicle directly after heavy use and using approved cleaning agents). These are dependent on speed, brake pressure or ambient conditions such as temperature and air humidity. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. a) If the noises are coming from the front axle => Affix linings with adhesive film (see attachments for front axle). If backing plate is installed on pads, move to step 3. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. 5. Apply heat-resistant lubricating paste to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 6. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle => Affix linings with adhesive film and grease the lining as per the specification (see attachments for rear axle). 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Cleaning all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Grease contact points (red areas) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with heat-resistant lubricating paste. 4. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 5. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. e) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. f) Reassess noise.

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