TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MERCEDES BENZ CL63. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE  ANTI THEFT MODE ENGAGED AND THE  STEERING WHEEL FAILED TO MOVE. THE BATTERY IN THE KEY FOB WAS DEAD.  THE CONTACT RETRIEVED THE SPARE FOB AND WAS ABLE TO START THE VEHICLE AND IT WORKED AS DESIGNED. THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. 

STRONG GASOLINE ODOR INSIDE CAR, TOOK TO MERCEDES BENZ OF POMPANO AND WAS TOLD THAT THIS WAS A PROBLEM THEY HAVE SEEN BEFORE AND THAT THE FUEL SENDING UNITS HAVE TO BE REPLACED AND TANK INSULATION PAD IS SATURATED WITH FUEL AND MUST BE REPLACED.  THEY SAID THAT THESE ITEMS ARE NOT COVERED ALTHOUGH IT IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT.  PLEASE ADVISE.

REF: COMPLAINT 10549686   I AM ENTERING A SECOND COMPLAINT REGARDING CASTING DEFECTS IN ORDER TO SIMPLIFY IT AND TO PRESENT INFORMATION THAT PROVES MERCEDES-BENZ MUST REPLACE ONE WHEEL ON MY VEHICLE.  ACCORDING TO THE USA CONSUMER ACTION HANDBOOK CONTACTING NHTSA IS SUGGESTED.   THE HANDBOOK MADE ON THING CLEAR, ?IF A SAFETY-RELATED DEFECT EXISTS, THE MAKER MUST FIX IT AT NO COST TO YOU ? EVEN IF YOUR WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED. P.10?    I NOW KNOW THAT TWO OF THE WHEELS HAVE THE DEFECT, BUT ONLY ONE IS CRACKED. THE CRACK RUNS DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE DEFECT. IT INITIATED AT THE LOCATION OF THE DEFECT AND CONTINUES TO GROW BY MEANS OF FATIGUE (REPETITIVE LOADING AND UNLOADING). THE ARE NO INDICATIONS THAT AN IMPACT INITIATED THE CRACK.     TO BE FAIR, I AM ONLY ASKING MERCEDES-BENZ REPLACE THE UNSAFE WHEEL WITH A REFURBISHED USED ONE COSTING $450, RATHER THAN A NEW ONE COSTING $1200.    A STUDY OF NHTSA COMPLAINTS FROM 2000 THROUGH 2011 REVEALS THAT FOR MANUFACTURING DEFECTS IN WHEELS:     AUDI HAD 1 COMPLAINT  CADILLAC HAD 2  BMW HAD 14, INCLUDING A RECALL CAMPAIGN FOR DEFECTIVE WHEELS (00V383000)  MERCEDES-BENZ HAD 47    MB REPLACED A NUMBER OF THESE WHEELS THAT WERE OUT OF WARRANTY.  AS DEFINED IN THE USA CONSUMER ACTION HANDBOOK THIS COMPRISES A ?SECRET? WARRANTY, THEREFORE MY WHEEL IS COVERED ALSO.    MB HAS A 1 YEAR / 12,000 MILE WARRANTY ON WHEELS. WHEELS ARE NOT COVERED UNDER THE BASIC BUMPER ? TO ? BUMPER WARRANTY AS ARE BY AUDI, BMW, GM, FORD, CHRYSLER, TOYOTA, HONDA, AND HUNDAI.    THE WHEELS WERE INSPECTED BY A MB DEALER SERVICE MANAGER ?[XXX] OF GRAND BLANC MOTOR CARS (810-695-4400). HE AGREED THAT TWO WHEELS HAD DEFECTS IN THEM AND ONE WAS CRACKED.     IN LIGHT OF ALL OF THIS EVIDENCE, AND THE LAW, PLEASE HAVE MB REIMBURSE ME $450. (MERCEDES-BENZ CUSTOMER SUPPORT, 3 MERCEDES-BENZ DRIVE, MONTVALE, NJ, 07645).  *TR

ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THE SOS, TELEAID LIT UP AND FLASHING.  THE HEADLIGHT, WINDSHIELD WIPERS, RADIO WERE INOPERABLE.  THE REASON IS THE CENTRAL GATE WAS BURNED, DEALER DID NOT DISCLOSE THE CAUSE OF IT.  *TR

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment Outer joint housing before) before coating with Molykote, using spirit (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing after) using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).

Complaint Transmission control unit Y3/8n4 (fully integrated transmission control unit (VGS)) not listed in quick test and/or no communication possible with VGS. Cause Transmission control unit Y3/8n4 Remedy For vehicles with 722.9 transmission: Ensure LI54.15-P-057373 is performed before replacing any component parts. After processing and complying with the above document(s): 1. Perform an ignition reset on Y3/8n4 (VGS) 2. Inspect transmission connector for loose connections, damaged wiring or pins and any other concerns If communication with the VGS cannot be established, the complete valve body ('electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS)') must be replaced. Installation of a VGS repair kit is not permitted in this case as it is not possible to transfer the necessary valve characteristics without communication with the original control unit.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing before) before coating with Molykote, using spirit (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing after) using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a closed system. Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy AMG brake systems are designed for high loads. This can result in noises under certain operating conditions and driving styles. Please refer to the Operator's Manual for further information such as care and maintenance instructions (washing vehicle directly after heavy use and using approved cleaning agents). These are dependent on speed, brake pressure or ambient conditions such as temperature and air humidity. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. a) If the noises are coming from the front axle => Affix linings with adhesive film (see attachments for front axle). If backing plate is installed on pads, move to step 3. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. 5. Apply heat-resistant lubricating paste to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 6. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle => Affix linings with adhesive film and grease the lining as per the specification (see attachments for rear axle). 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Cleaning all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Grease contact points (red areas) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with heat-resistant lubricating paste. 4. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 5. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. e) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. f) Reassess noise.

Complaint Vehicle with atypical reduced heat output. Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Complaint During a phone call, the called party has difficulty understanding/cannot understand the driver, or interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture 1) B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture 2. 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: • It is recommended to replace the cover caps. • The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicle’s warranty in any way.

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy AMG brake systems are designed for high loads. This can result in noises under certain operating conditions and driving styles. Please refer to the Operator's Manual for further information such as care and maintenance instructions (washing vehicle directly after heavy use and using approved cleaning agents). These are dependent on speed, brake pressure or ambient conditions such as temperature and air humidity. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the model series in question, and if so, work through it and then continue with1b. b) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). c) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. 1. Replace damaged components as necessary and re-assess noise concern. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. a) If the noises are coming from the front axle => Affix linings with adhesive film (see attachments for front axle). If backing plate is installed on pads, move to step 3. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. For 6 piston calipers, only in the area of the center piston. For other piston caliper configurations less than 6, apply where the piston(s) makes contact with the back of the pad. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. 5. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle => Affix linings with adhesive film and grease the lining as per the specification (see attachments for rear axle). 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Cleaning all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Grease contact points (red areas) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with heat-resistant lubricating paste. 4. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 5. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfered Pads. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. d) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. e) Reassess noise.

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing before) before coating with Molykote, using spirit (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing after) using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Mercedes-Benz CL63 AMG

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