The recently completed recall on this vehicle back in 2021 last year for the wheel hub caps. Approximately two days ago, I drove it off the dealership and after I got home I noticed the wheel hub cap was missing from my passenger side. This is a known hazard and hasn't been remedied correctly from the last recall service it had and I'm sure it fell off again. Would I be able to get this replaced for free? Because the dealership told me it wouldn't be covered under warranty and they're asking me to fork over $120 for a plastic hub cap.

1)The side cover on the driver’s seat covering the seatbelt harness area detaches from the seat. The defect has been shown to the Mercedes dealer, Autohaus on Eden of Northbrook, IL several times. The dealer refuses to fix it.   2) The wheel hubcaps fly off during a normal drive of 30 mph risking injuries to other vehicles. The recall has been issued by NHTSA, but the same dealer refuses to acknowledge and fix it. 

WHILE LEAVING WORK AND MAKING A RIGHT TURN MY CAR DIED, A QUICK MALFUNCTION NOTIFICATION CAME ON THE DISPLAY THEN NOTHING. I WAS STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. IT TOOK MINUTES TO BE ABLE TO START UP THE CAR AND GET IT TO SHIFT.  IT WAS A COMPLETE FAILURE IN MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. IT'S NOW BEEN AT THE DEALER FOR 16 DAYS. NO END IN SIGHT. MBUSA HAS BEEN HORRIFIC IN THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE. NOTHING SHOWS ON THE DIAGNOSTIC CHECK. BUT. ON A TEST DRIVE WHILE LEAVING THE CAR IN THE HOT PHOENIX SUN AND IT DID THE SAME FAILURE. THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENED WITH MY HUSBANDS CAR ON THE SAME DAY SAME MODEL

IN A BUSY INTERSECTION I WAS MAKING A LEFT TURN, AS I WAS EDGING OUT MY CAR DIED, EVERYTHING STOPPED, A QUICK MALFUNCTION ERROR WAS SEEN ON DISPLAY. TOOK MY 5 TRIES TO GET GOING AND PULL OFF,  VERY SCARY, MY WIFE HAS THE SAME 2020 MODEL, SHE HAD THE SAME ISSUE TWO HOURS LATER,  IT WAS THE HOTTEST DAY TO DATE IN PHOENIX, BOTH CARS WERE OUTSIDE,  SHE WAS LEAVING HER PARKING LOT AT WORK WHEN IT HAPPENED. TWO CARS THE SAME MODEL, SAME DAY HAVE TIS ISSUE WITH LESS THAN 3K MILES,  BOTH CARS ARE IN THE SHOP,  8 DAYS AND COUNTING,  I FILED A COMPLAINT WITH MEBEN THAT WE WANT ARE MONEY BACK, LOCAL DEALER AND MBENZ ENGINEERS ARE INVOLVED,. NO RESOLUTION. DEALER RAN DIAGNOSTIC TEST, SHOWED NOTHING, BUT LEAVING THE CAR OUT ALL DAY AND TAKING FOR A TEST RIDE THEY HAD THE SAME CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. MY WIFES VIN IS [XXX], ITS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AND THE ATTITUDE IS A MERE SHRUG OF THE SHOULDERS    REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *CC

Complaint At low speeds and light brake pressure, brakes will make a groaning or honking noise. Cause Frictional vibrations with very light brake pressure/modulations. Remedy This condition can be duplicated on most vehicles. To validate, use a like for like reference vehicle. The noise is normal behavior under the conditions listed. With very light brake pressure this noise can be induced/caused due to normal brake pad and brake rotor vibrations. Exchanging brake components will not rectify.

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce or eliminate noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some of the scenarios are: • Driving style • Brake pressure and application style (stop-and-go traffic with consistent low brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). • Ambient temperatures 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and Molykote as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 4. Be sure to remove both brown paper backing sides of the adhesive film, it is double sided adhesive film. 5. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate where pistons contact the back of the pad, you may gently scrape off and re-apply a new adhesive or Molykote. Must not apply the Molykote on top of the adhesive. 6. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture Chamfering Technique. 7. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 8. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment Rear Pad Grease Area) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake application

Complaint Noises/ squealing from the service brake in various driving situations and ambient conditions. Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy The intent of this document is to reduce or eliminate noise from high performance AMG brakes. AMG brakes are designed for performance under high load and in certain scenarios, can emit noise. Some of the scenarios are: • Driving style • Brake pressure and application style (stop-and-go traffic with consistent low brake pressure “riding brakes” where the brakes cannot cool sufficiently between applications). • Ambient temperatures 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). b) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. Replace damaged components as necessary. c) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). d) Clean brake components free of brake dust and debris. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the specific model in question, and if so, work through it and then continue. 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If the brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. Continue with applying chamfer and brake paste as instructed below. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! a) If the noises are coming from the front axle. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate, including the brake lining guide pins and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining where the piston contacts the pad backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. If adhesive is already installed on backing plate, you may gently scrape off and re-apply a new adhesive. In some instances the adhesive may be very carefully removed and Molykote applied instead. 4. Chamfer edges (gently round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. Some pads have vertical grooves, these can be gently chamfered with a triangular file as well. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Apply Molykote to the sides of the backing plate. See picture Adhesive and Paste Application Area. 6. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle. 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining backing plate and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 4. Chamfer edges (round off sharp leading edges) on brake pads. See picture Chamfering Technique. 5. Grease contact points (red areas on attachment Rear Pad Grease Area) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with Molykote. 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) If the vehicle is an AMG P3 Hybrid, switch off recouperation prior to bedding in brakes. d) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. e) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. f) Reassess noise.

Complaint Customer complains of oil use, oil leaking or oil smell. Upon inspection oil will be seen at or around the rear of the engine and at the engine/transmission interface. Cause Oil leaking from rear main seal and/or rear main seal plate. Remedy If the rear main seal plate has been previously replaced per the instructions in this LI, open a TIPS case before proceeding. Inspect the rear main seal very carefully. Make sure the seal is not sucked in, rolled, or cut (see pictures in attachments).  Confirm the leak location is at the rear main seal and/or rear main seal plate by cleaning the area thoroughly and applying trace powder to the suspected area. Allow the vehicle to run either on a lift or at low speed in a controlled environment (do not attempt at high speed or in wet areas as this will make the results difficult to assess). If the leak is emanating from the seal: replace both air/oil separators. Then clean the bellhousing area completely and test with trace powder again to see if the leak remains. If it doesn't, release the car. If the leak remains pull the rear main seal plate, clean the block mating surface completely and replace the rear main seal plate and rear main seal. When the new seal is installed make sure the sealant path is followed exactly as it is shown per the drawing in the attachments. Apply the sealant to the BLOCK instead of the plate to ensure adequate coverage is attained. After installation lubricate a feeler gauge with oil and run it between the rear main seal and the crank to clear any small debris that may be present and to break any binding or stiction.

Complaint The intent of this document is to provide workshops with helpful technical reference language. • Commonly used acronyms in LI's and TIPS cases. • Control unit names, numbers, and how to identify. • Network/wiring architecture groups to baumuster quick reference. • Platform to baumuster quick reference. Cause Information only Remedy Acronyms: • AV = Actual Values • CU = Control Unit • CUL = Control Unit Log • DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code • E-Stand = Fresh-up head unit boot software (found in head unit control unit log) • FUP = Fresh-up • FW = Firmware • HSVL = High Speed Video Line • HU = Head Unit • HW = Hardware • IPD = Injector Performance Data • ISU = Initial Start Up • LVDS = Low Voltage Differential Signal • NSFT = Not Safe For Transport • MOPF = Model Facelift (Ex: 167 MOPF) • PiH = Plug-in Hybrid • P3 Hybrid = AMG Plug-in Hybrid with rear drive unit • SA Code = Sonderausstattungscode (Option Code) • SCN = Software Calibration Number SW = Software • TCU = Telecommunication Control Unit (Hermes/Ramses/Etc...) • QT = Quicktest • XD = XENTRY Diagnosis Control Unit Identification: Refer to the attachment Control Unit Nomenclature for location of each. • Control Unit Name • Control Unit Number • Control Unit Short name • Control Unit Diogenes (dy-oj-uh-neez) name - Control unit variant/family. Network/Wiring Architecture to Baumuster Quick Reference: MFA = Mercedes-Benz Frontwheel Architecture • 117 • 156 • 246 MFA2 = Mercedes-Benz Frontwheel Architecture - Generation 2 • 118 • 177 • 243 • 247 EVA1.5 = Electric Vehicle Architecture • 243 EVA2 = Electric Vehicle Architecture - Generation 2 • 294 • 295 • 296 • 297 MSA = Mercedes-Benz Sport Architecture • 192 • 232 MMA = Mercedes-Benz Modular Architecture • 174 Star 1 • 117, 156, 246 (MFA) • 166, 176, 221, 242, 246, 292 Star 2 • 205, 213, 238, 253, 257, 290 (MRA) • 117, 156, 246 (MFA) • 118, 177, 243, 247 (MFA2) • 167, 222, 292, 463, 465, 906 Star 3 • 294, 295, 296, 297 (EVA2) • 206, 214, 223, 236, 254 (MRA2) • 192 and 232 (MSA) • 907 Platform to Baumuster Quick Reference: MRA = Mercedes-Benz Rearwheel Architecture: • 205 • 213 • 222 • 238 • 253 • 257 • 290 MRA2 = Mercedes-Benz Rearwheel Architecture - Generation 2: • 206 • 214 • 223 • 236 • 254 MFA = Mercedes-Benz Frontwheel Architecture • 117 • 156 • 246 MFA2 = Mercedes-Benz Frontwheel Architecture - Generation 2 • 118 • 177 • 243 • 247 EVA1.5 = Electric Vehicle Architecture • 243 EVA2 = Electric Vehicle Architecture - Generation 2 • 294 • 295 • 296 • 297 MSA = Mercedes-Benz Sport Architecture • 192 • 232 MMA = Mercedes-Benz Modular Architecture • 174

Complaint Single throttle lift-off clunking noise from the side shaft when moving off (audible at the outboard end). The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing before) before coating with Molykote, using spirit (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment Outer joint housing after) using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

In our continuing efforts to ensure the proper performance of Mercedes-Benz products and to enhance the satisfaction of our customers, Mercedes-Benz USA is extending the warranty coverage for the Diagnostic Module for Tank Leakage detection (“DMTL”) on your vehicle from the original New Vehicle Limited Warranty of 4 years / 50,000 miles to 15 years/150,000 miles (whichever occurs first). This applies to the vehicle regardless of ownership.

Complaint After a software update of HERMES communication module N112/9 has been performed on a gray import vehicle, the message SOS - Service not activated is displayed in the instrument cluster. Cause The message SOS - Service not activated tells the customer that over-the-air registration of the vehicle with the Mercedes Intelligent Cloud is not possible. On a gray import vehicle, this is due to the fact that the SIM card installed in the HERMES communications module cannot dial into the mobile phone network in the importing country. Remedy The only way of avoiding the message in the instrument cluster is to deactivate the HERMES module using the 09o deactivation process after obtaining the customer's consent. After deactivation, the HERMES control unit (N112/9) has the operating status Inoperative. The message SOS not ready appears in the audio/COMAND display (A40/8) and may also appear in the instrument cluster. This display message tells the customer that the emergency call function is not available. In addition, the workshop must attach a label (2 x part number A9078172900 required) to the cover of the emergency call button in the overhead control panel and to the emergency call button itself. Replacing the hardware of the HERMES communication module is not effective.

Complaint Headlamp, front fog lamp leaky or fogged Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a closed system. Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4 °F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Complaint Headlamps leaking or fogged Cause The fogging of the headlamp is a natural phenomenon which can occur under certain climatic conditions. In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 °C/+64.4°F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: • Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) • Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. • All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). • Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. • Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). • Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). • If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. • If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

Mercedes-Benz AMG GT R Pro

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